Sprinkler zone not working, or the whole system won't turn on
The first question is simple: is it one zone, or all of them? The answer splits the problem in two and saves most of the diagnosis.
One zone or all zones
| What you notice | Where the fault usually is |
|---|---|
| No zone runs, the controller screen is blank | No power to the controller: a tripped outlet (GFCI), a failed transformer or a tripped breaker |
| No zone runs, the screen works | Rain sensor holding the system off, a rain delay, the controller set to off, a broken common wire, or the pump not starting |
| One zone does not run | The valve solenoid, the wire to that valve, or debris in the valve |
| One zone runs weakly | Broken or clogged heads, a partly closed valve, or low pressure from the pump |
| A zone will not turn off | Debris holding the valve open, a torn diaphragm, or a stuck controller output |
Checks at the controller
Make sure the screen is on. If it is blank, look for a tripped outlet in the garage or on the outside wall and reset it.
Check that the controller is in the run or auto position and that there is no rain delay set. Most controllers have a switch to bypass the rain sensor: if the system runs with the sensor bypassed, the sensor or its wiring is the problem. Do not leave it bypassed, Florida law requires a working rain or moisture sensor on automatic systems.
Run the dead zone by hand from the controller. If it runs by hand but not on schedule, the program is the issue, often the days. In Miami-Dade and Broward those days are set by your address, see the watering days guide below.
Checks at the valve
Every zone has a valve, usually in a green box in the ground. Most valves have a small bleed screw or lever on top. Opening it lets water through without any electrical signal.
If the zone runs when you open the bleed screw, the valve works and the problem is electrical: the solenoid, the wire to it, or the controller output. If the zone does not run even with the bleed screw open, the problem is hydraulic: debris, the diaphragm, or no water reaching the valve. Close the screw again when you are done.
Wires to the valves are shallow and get cut by edging, trenching and new planting. If a zone died after yard work, that is the first place to look.
When to call
Call when the controller has power but several zones fail, when a zone will not turn off, or when the pump is involved. We trace the wiring with a meter, test each solenoid and check the pump start relay, then fix the cause instead of replacing parts to see what works.
Sprinkler controllers and sensors
Make the watering schedule, valves and sensors work together for your landscape.
Common questions
Why did all my sprinkler zones stop working at once?+
When every zone stops together the cause is shared: power to the controller, the rain sensor, the common wire, or the pump. A single valve cannot stop all zones.
How do I know if a sprinkler solenoid is bad?+
If the zone runs when you open the bleed screw on the valve but not from the controller, the solenoid or its wiring is the likely cause. A meter across the solenoid wires confirms it.
Can a rain sensor stop my sprinklers from turning on?+
Yes, that is its job after rain. A sensor that is stuck, wet for days or badly wired can keep the system off. Use the bypass switch to test it, then fix or replace it.
Start with an assessment of your irrigation.
An existing fault or a new installation. Tell us what you need and where the property is.